Sunday, November 05, 2006

FINALLY!

It had been dragged for quite long, especially in pictures arrangement etc.
Komodo trip has been a wild, crazy and different experience to us. While it was static and calm on the boat, we had been almost ripped apart below.

We saw many new things, and many variety of things. Although I did miss doing the shallow and calm muck diving, Komodo sure leaves a special mark in our adventures with the sea mountains and landscapes and of course, the infamous current.

I hope the pictures and the stories below are tally enough, because the makings are about two weeks apart, the final part was completed when my mind has again been filled with city smoke and my eyes with myopia syndrome looking at the computer. I miss the horizon!!!

Anyway, enjoy. : )

(Click on the pictures to see the real size)




The Trail of The Quest.
12th October 2006

After 2,5 hours flight, we reached Bali at around 21.30.
A guy from Air Diving Academy was waiting for us with the huge van we used the last time we had diving safari in Bali. This time, we headed straight to White Rose Hotel, Kuta Bali, which should be around half an hour from the airport.

Bali looked like the last time we left it, low city skyline, lots of landscape and of course, the statue of the warrior with many horses, sorry I don’t know the name and story of the statue.
That night was special because it was the memoir of 12th October 2002 Bali Bombing, which happened exactly four years ago. We didn’t realize about that until our driver told us. As we looked around, we could see that Bali’s people had never forgotten the sadness and the bitterness of that bloody day. They laid white long fabric from the location of first Bombing to Jimbaran, location where the bombing happened last year. It is a very significant distance.
When we reached there, we were held by the police road block, because our hotel was located next to the Bomb Monument, big car were not allowed to get in, after circling around a few times, we had to walk to the hotel, with our luggage.

So we dragged our belonging, dive gears, haversack and we started to walk. The roads were full of people, every kind of people; Balinese, Australian, Japanese, Westerners. We walked through quite a long distance, very long indeed with all the massive weight. People were talking to me along the road. People were talking to everyone. It was crowded, but it was not noisy. On the peak, we reached the Bomb Monument where everyone was gathering and praying. There were long lists of the name of the victims, flower bouquets, and even colorful big sized pictures of the victims placed by their families. A lot of Australian or Westerner and the victim’s family came back to visit Bali. I must say the feeling was quite surreal around.
On one narrow walkway we reached our hotel. I had the idea previously to document the ceremony around the monument, but we got busy and we were exhausted. After check-in, we went to our room. We had spacious and luxurious rooms. Every cluster consists of three hotel rooms and one big living room; it was very convenient facility for those people coming for long stay and business.

This trip, there were four of us minus Leo. After we dropped our luggage, we went to our friend’s room, chitchat to catch up with one another, camera, gear talk, time flies and soon we hit midnight. We also exchanged information given by Grand Komodo. We got our air tickets as promise, and sweet package of T-Shirt and Komodo Dive Sites and Komodo Island information.

I was quite anxious to get to my camera, because I wanted it prepared for tomorrow. When we rode the plane, we should take out the O-ring from the underwater casing to prevent it from being compressed by the air pressure. It was, ehem, my virgin camera, so I didn’t really sure how long was the workload to prepare everything. And then, my gears were also dissembled. But then, we still had to take another flight tomorrow; so we might as well did it after we reached the real destination.



13th October 2006


The ADA driver picked us up early, we checked out and off we went to the airport. It was always shorter journey to the airport. After we were dropped, things started to get unclear. I was told to meet Grand Komodo ambassador in front of GT Air counter, but I couldn’t see any GT Air sign anywhere. I only had one clue; it’s located in the far corner. Huh. There was some kind of gate where only airline passenger could pass through. But I thought GK wouldn’t be able to meet me inside. So I told them that I was going to wait outside, in front of Merpati counter, next to the check-in gate, anyway, they were still on the road so they should pass me.
Apparently, GK ambassador had another herd, the six Westerners who were going to join us on the boat. So they were checked in directly, and we had to find them inside, on the @#% GT Air counter. I swear it was written Indonesian Air. Hayah. Spare us from confusion, GT Air counter was not exists! Maybe the previous name was GT, but, how would we know?

However, I was more than glad to finally be on the clear track. We weighted our luggage, praying not to exceed 80 kg. Lucky, it wasn’t. Our luggage was being cleared from the scale when the officer told me.

“Mbak/Miss, please step on the scale too. We need to weight you.”

Hahaha. A joke is always a good sign that the process is done.

“Mbak. please step on the scale.”

I still thought they were joking, until they asked me again. So, one by one we were weighted. Weird? I guess so. After that. we quickly escorted our hand cabin away, as although our backpacks looked normal, they were not on the normal when we counted in kg. We dumped computer, hard disk, breathing device and gigantic torches to prevent additional charges for our check-in luggage and to save our important life supports from abuse and torture in the cargo compartment.

10.15am. We rode the propeller plane. It was much better that I thought. Although propeller, it fitted more than forty people. Unlike my ride with propeller in the past, with 8 passengers, me seated in the co-pilot seat, where I got a touch to the funny2 button and watched the navigation guy running away from the plane walkway when we touched down, unforgettable.
So, it was much better than I thought, we even had stewardess on the board. But for my friends, I don’t know whether it’s better than their imagination. They looked quite tense during the trip and the turbulence, and the propeller sound.

It was around one and a half hour when we reach Labuan Bajo airport, Flores Island. On my side, we were able to see beautiful sight of islands around the destination.
Komodo Island is located between Sumbawa and Flores Island, it is the part of East Nusa Tenggara, one of the province of Indonesia. I read that the people here are Melanesian and their religion is 90% Christian.
East Nusa Tenggara or Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT) is different from the rest of Indonesia, it’s geographically, ethnically and culturally a border area where the transition from Asia to Australia and Micronesia takes place. The islands of NTT have apparently always been separated from the Asian landmass by deep sea-beds or deep-sea trench which also marks an eco-boundary, named the 'Wallace Line' after the 19th century naturalist Alfred Russell Wallace.

Along our journey with the boat, we did pass by massive of mountainous islands which was dry as the result of hot dry winds from Australian continent. Only small amount of the islands were being populated or vegetated, as they have difficulties to find natural water sources. We heard from our dive guide, Sebastian, that on some islands, only goats and boars could survive the dry climate, some people put their goats in the island and come to retrieve them when they need the goats. Goat thieves? Sebastian said they are welcomed if they could travel through the sea, and, successfully chased after the goat in the mountainous area.

Roughly 57 percent of NTT territory is hilly with mountains rising to 2427m (Gunung Mutis) in Timor and 1792m (G. Kelimutu) in Flores. Mount Kelimutu has become a favourite mountain climbing destination, with its three crater lakes of different colors. The highest mountain from all Nusa Tenggara is Mount Rinjani 3726m , it was rumoured that there is a frozen lake on the top, my previous dream mountaineering destination.

Okay.

Basically Labuan Bajo airport arrival hall consists of only a room. We could feel the hot and dry sun outside when we posed for picture in front of the plane. It’s not a destination of everyday, have to make the best of it. Sebastian, our dive master was waiting for us outside. We waited for our baggage and started to spot the six Westerners, four Dutch and two German. Almost all of other passengers were Caucasians.

When we were freed from the waiting room. We gathered around the big van of GK. Our luggage was put behind the van and miraculously on top of the van, we had maybe around twenty to thirty huge luggage?

So we introduced each other. Names and names, tried to memorize them well, but time would tell.
We had a short ride to the seaport. Along the way, some of the part of the city looked like small road in Serpong. We went through dusty roads and saw the tanned hard working villagers.

I was quite in shock when Sebastian informed us that we only had him as dive master because other was not feeling well. I read articles and articles about the advanced diving condition in Komodo. 1 against 10 was not a good idea, at all.
I wasn’t comfortable, the only things that could ease my mind, a bit, is that I suspected that the rest of the diving group were experienced divers.

From the car, we could see MV Tarata, our vessel in sight. It is a medium bugis ship and we were wondering, where could we sleep? We boarded the ship while the crew helped us with the belonging. Upon touching the ship, we had to surrender our slippers and shoes. Barefoot was the way. We explored the boat and found the cabins below. Honestly, I was quite surprised to find that the boat didn’t have entertainment facilities except few books and no-signal TV.
We had 3D2N experience of live on board before, which the ship had abundant movies and home theater to enjoy, and even massage chair. So, we kind of expected it to have the same or more quality for a week stay on boat.

All of us gathered in the dining room and Sebastian briefed us and introduced us to the crews; the cook and assistant, the cabin keeper, the captain, the dingy man, the compressor man, the engineer. After the briefing we started to assembly our gear and fixed it to the tank, then we went to the cabin and assembly the camera.

Me and Hubby brought empty casing with tissue paper, his standard procedure for first dive, to make sure the casing is still reliable. I was more than relieved that I didn’t have to take picture on the first dive. Pressure.

We jumped from the big boat and went down for the first dive site, one-hour journey from the seaport. I must say my first day impression was quite bad. First, one to ten dive master, lack of boat facility, and now, what kind of dive site was that?! The first dive site condition was really bad, comparable or worse than our weekday short diving getaway to West Malaysia. I was cursing and swearing in the water, after coming all the way and paying good sum of money…
Another sad thing was Frog’s camera was flooded. I felt very sorry for him.

So first dive left me mud headed. I only could cross my finger and hoped for a better tomorrow. We still had one night dive, and luckily, the night dive was better. We started to see more things as we embarked to the real sea. Cute little tiny polka dot crab, huge lobster, Spanish dancer, Octopus, Moray Eels ridden by a crab, Imperial Shrimp, few types of Nudibranch.
14th October 2006

Personally, I had a very good sleep in the cabin. Our cabins were located in the heart of the boat, less noise from the engine. The cabin consisted of two single beds, one stacked on top of another and low head as we couldn’t sit straight on the bed. It had quite a spacious attached bathroom though, each cabin was air-conditioned and had a circular window looking out to the sea, each bed had reading light.

Our everyday schedule was:
First dive - breakfast,
Second dive - lunch,
Third dive - tea break,
Night dive - dinner.
It was well organized to feed our crazy tummy after every dive. But we had to thank Cynthia for bringing one big box of tidbits, it really made our days, couldn’t imagine passing the days without.

We prepared for first dive, and this time, if I remember correctly, we dived from dingy. Dingy was the small boat tied to the big boat. It’s good to transfer us to dive point and picked us up when we surfaced.
So, first groups, the six ang-moh and Sebastian were carried by the dingy, while we geared ourselves up and waited for it to pick us up.

When we jumped, we were greeted by the excellent visibility. The corals were healthy and everything looked good and colorful. At last, I was relieved to see the diving quality.
The current was gradually stronger and soon, we were doing superman dive. It was like the drift dive we did in Bali, but this time, there were ten other divers around us. We spaced up nicely around each other, and we enjoyed the dive. We saw three huge Napoleon Wrasse cruising very close to us.

Second dive, we reached Batu Bolong or Current city. There was a weird tiny island who gives the dive site that name. Batu Bolong means rock with hole. And Current City means…eh..wait…current?
I read about this dive site before and I was eager to go down because what I read was gooood, I just hope that there wasn’t terrible current around.

Turned out, it was the first dive we saw Manta Ray. It was a huge Black Manta, we were enjoying the beautiful sign of colorful fish and coral, saw school of big fish too, Jacks/big eye trevally consisted of Giant Trevally, Black Trevally, Blue fin and common silver trevally, various type of fusiliers in school when we heard teng kleneng kleneng sound from Sebastian tank banger. We looked to the right and I couldn’t forget the sight. The wall on my left was slope down slowly to the depth on my right. Most divers were concentrated of my left but I noticed Cynthia was on my right. I saw the Manta passed by. Excited, I finned and grabbed Hubby, who didn’t realize the sight. When I got his attention and pointed to the manta direction, it disappeared. But wait, everyone was keep looking at the blue and sure enough, it went back to us. It was a glorious sight with the most posh fish in the sea. It mingled with us but maintained the distance for a while and then disappeared to the blue. We continued the dive and did our safety stop and in between other fish, I finally saw giant barracuda, my fearsome and the mysterious fish I dived with often with me didn’t realize it was around. But the hell with barracuda, manta manta mantaaaaaaa.
Other than that, we saw Napoleon Wrasse again, Marbled Grouper, Magpie Sweetlips, Yellow Sweetlips, Mackarel. There were so many big fish!

Froggie made a comment about current city with no current. Too fast speaking, we went down on the third dive and only managed to enjoy first few minutes of the dive. We found a big crocodile fish and took picture for a while and then, the current started to pick up. Upon reaching the wall, I started to feel more difficult to move forward. When I saw the rest of the divers hanging to the wall, I made fast decision and head down to approach the rock before the current carried me. Apparently the up current was sweeping us. With effort, we managed to grab the rocks, including me and Cynthia who were carried up a bit.

It was quite a hellish dive! We had to fight the current along the dive. Sometimes we found sheltered rock and rest for a while, but most of the dive we had to use the reef hooks to relieve our fingertip. Even the fish and corals around us were moving like crazy. We were exhausted. I figured out that we had to fight the current to avoid carried away because it would be dangerous, it was confirmed by Sebastian, he said that we had no other choice, if we carried, we might trapped into the washing machine current or brought down to the depth. At the end of the dive, after safety stop, nobody stayed longer or fooling around. We fought the choppy surface to climb into the dingy.

Hua. So this is the infamous current of Komodo. Looking at the bright side, we gathered additional experience. I was still in high spirit because although the sea was rough, the sight was pretty.

The good news was, two additional DM from Bali have arrived. So from that time, we were going to dive in private group starting for that very night dive.

We did the night dive in Pantai Merah, this dive sites lies very close to the Komodo ranger station and many boats come here for snorkeling. It is a slope with a sandy bottom.
Sinking down, we were greeted by barramundi cod, something we don’t often see and a white frogfish. After Lembeh, frogfish had become one of my favorite creatures because it is weird, ugly, but cute at the same time because it ignores divers and generously posing for photograph. It was a rewarding night dive, we also saw a weird big triangle coral as big as head walking around, but we had no idea what drove it around, maybe a gigantic hermit crab? We saw spiky cuttlefish and spiky super mini cuttlefish which was only the size of rice. It was floating near Hubby torch when he realized it was not just dust or worm. I found a ugly big nudibranch which is different with other type of nudi, instead of soft bodied, that one was hard. I’ve never seen it somewhere else. We also saw a lot of spiky crab, spiky shrimp. As we were heading North, the water temperature had become colder, I clocked 24 Celcius degree on this night dive with 0.5 wetsuit. Brr brr brr brrrrr kletek kletek kletek, but when I was busy taking pictures, I didn’t feel the cold, in between kletek kletek again.
15th October 2006

Before the first dive, we went to Pulau Komodo for the Komodo Dragon land tour. This is almost the only place where Komodo Dragon survive in their natural habitat.

The Komodo Dragon is referred to by the residents of Indonesia as the Ora. Although only two islands of Indonesia house these mighty reptiles, they used to be present in Australia not too long ago. The Australian version of the ora was much larger and more dangerous that the modern dragon, but is extinct now. Even so, these smaller versions that exist today are pretty big. The largest ever measured was 10 feet, 2.5 inches.

There was a time when the ora was in serious danger of extinction.
The Komodo Dragon was discovered in the age of the first world war, when a pilot crashed his plane in the Indonesian waters. He was able to swim to the shore of a nearby island, which we found was inhabited by giant monsters. Luckily, he was able to radio home and was rescued. When he first told his stories of the "giant reptiles" that lived on the island, no one believed him (of course). Later, his reports were confirmed by another expedition by a man interested in the stories of the dragons told by the pilot.
The Indonesians always knew about the oras on the island, however. They exiled all of their public outcasts to this island, knowing of the dangers they would face (and, their ultimate demise) on the island. However, the people set up a small settlement which is still around today. Known fondly as "Komodo Village", this Muslim town derives most of its money from tourists and fishing (for fish, Mother of Pearl, etc.).

Back then, group of tourist was always entertained by Komodo feeding. The ranger would bring a goat as bait, and the tourists were able to see the dragons ripping off the goat. But since 1994 (if I heard correctly) the practice was stop, because it’s gruesome, and it made the dragon become dependent and expect food from human. After that, the dragons survive on their own in the wild.

When our group reached the island, some misfortune happened. Made, our DM, was slipped when he tried to walk up to the jetty stairs. He fell into the sea while his legs were still on the dingy. He had few bruises and cuts and lost his mobile, we felt very sorry for him.
We passed by small stalls, actually only consisted off tables selling Komodo dragon’s souvenir. After that, we were briefed by the Park Ranger, two rangers would guide us, one in front and one in back, we were reunited with the other six. The rangers had stick with two branches at the end; it didn’t look like it capable of stopping Komodo if they decide to attack though. Although the dragons look slow and lazy, they can run faster than a dog and they can swim across island. We were wondering, didn’t we dive down the beach last night? We saw the baby Komodo hiding on the tree; they have to do that to survive from their elder because Komodo are cannibals.

Near the cafeteria, there were few Komodo around, they moved slowly and some were asleep. They looked scary and not at the same time, but when they turned their head slowly to look right in the eye, I felt the automatic need to move backward.

It was bloody hot in the island. We could see that everywhere the land was very dry, there were a lot of dried vegetation and the rest of the vegetation was very different from what I often see in every other part of Indonesia. The hottest temperature recorded in this island was more than forty Celsius Degree and the lowest was about seventeen degree. The hottest month falls on November and Komodo are more easily agitated when they are hot. Hm. The ones we saw near the cafeteria looked as if they got used to humans, although they were still wild and unpredictable.

Along the way, we also saw birds, spiders, cicada, there was a pair of tourist who came only to enjoy bird sighting. We also saw very huge male deer. It was staring at us for few minutes, then it ran after making a very loud sound. I though it sound like a dog bark. We saw wild boar, Obelix’s favorite food. It was huge; we were standing very, very far away.
The Ranger brought us to the small hill and from there, we had very nice view of the sea.
We only saw few Komodo along the way. They were walking through the bushed and shrub; one was checking us immediately after we entered the forest because it smelt our presence.
At the end of the walk, we took a rest and enjoyed very nice coca cola, then we had to walk back to the boat on those floating big hollow plastic, made specially for the walkway. We squeezed everybody in the dingy, couldn’t wait to get off the island and got down to the water because of the very very hot weather. We reached the big boat, and after some rest we prepared for the first dive.
We visited Pantai Merah again for the first dive, the frog fish had moved, we saw a lot of nudibranch and of course, a lot of fish.

The temperature dropped down to 23 degree underwater. I couldn’t take it anymore, and switched to my 3mm suit. 23 might sound easy on the land, but underwater it was no joke!

After the first dive, we started moving to Padar Island, second dive was done there, with Pillarsteen as the dive point. The dive was special, although the sun was shining strong on the surface, below there was dark, murky and spooky and mysterious. It felt almost surreal. Although the darkness and limited visibility made us enjoy less, it gave the feeling like we were doing dusk dive or dawn dive.

This was also the dive while I encountered some nasty experience with the current. We were enjoying the wall when suddenly I felt some current started to push me up. It begun with slow but soon built up to faster pace, I saw myself being drifted up from my group, the current swept harder and my mask was filled with water. I wasn’t able to see and I knew the current kept trying to push me to the surface and to the rock. I only could think of few possibilities, I could be carried up to the surface and risked decompression sickness and embolism to my lung, or carried to another swell or current and hit something dangerous; animal, rock or boat.
It was only slightly more than five meters away from the surface, so I grabbed hard on whatever I could to prevent me shooting up to the surface. It was hard, the current was ripping, lucky, I managed to find a good grip and positioned myself as close as possible to the wall to minimize the effect of the current, then with another hand to make sure my regulator and mask was in place, and then tried to clear away the water from the mask. When I was able to see, the vertical up current was not as strong, I let go the grip and finned head down to the deeper and caught up with my friends, who were also holding on something from the additional horizontal current.

The current subsidized after few minutes, so I was able to clear up my whole mask and thanked the one upstairs to let me got away from the danger. It was really a challenging dive.
It’s spooky but somehow, there was something unexplainable that made me like the dive, minus the crazy current incident.
From the deep, Cynthia pointed to above and we saw shadow of big fish around, including one mysterious very huge fish, floating slowly above us. It was spooky and scary, later on I identified it as Giant Grouper, the ugly and territorial big fish.
We were secretly grateful that it was swimming quite a distance from us. I saw school of Humphead Parrotfish ahead, Made saw that also, he turned and banged the tank to let the rest know, but when he made the tank sound, the Humpheads were surprised and all of them swam away with lighting speed. When Made turned back, he was confused, especially when the other three were looking and waiting for him to show the big thing.
The rest of the dive we also faced swinging current. Swing to the right, swing to the left, again, and again, together with those fish around us.

The story still continues for this dive. We were crowding around one rock where we found a dozen yellow spiky nudibranch. We were excited, because it’s quite difficult to find so many nudibranch gather naturally in one spot. We took pictures, and when we looked around, we realized, the whole slope, the whole landscape was full of the same type of nudibranch. Each of them was only few centimeters apart. It was amazing nudibranch rain, something we had never seen. We passed by tons and tons of them, and when the dive was coming to the end, we did our safety stop in the blue.

During our surface interval, we often saw Komodo dragons cruising on the beach and monkeys also. Some sailing boat were parked nearby purposely to send their tourists when they saw the dragons. We saw few tourists walking on the beach where there were two small dragons. When one of the dragon approached them, all of them jumped back to the boat. Ha ha chicken.. Magnus and Silvia our German couple asked our dingy to carry them to the island too.

We did Sunset Dive in Cannibal Rock for the third dive, when we did back roll, I felt something was wrong, my mask was gone. Apparantely bubble trapped inside my hood and flopped, the mask went out and sunk to the deep. We tried to retrieve but we couldn’t see much below. So Cynthia, Froggie and Made descended, while me and Hubby waited for the dingy to come back with our spare mask. When he came back, we were told to climb up to the boat as we had been drifted away from the original location. We followed the bubble trace, and jumped down. I could see three bubble rows at first, so we descended. When we were descending, we no longer saw bubbles, what we saw was a dark volume of water and eyes, thousands of eyes surround us. We were in the middle of very big school of big eyes trevally. It was spooky; we tried to look once more, to adjust our eyes to the darkness, no bubbles. We communicated underwater and decided to surface, when we looked at the computer, we were on eighteen-meter depth. It was surprising because we were only descending a bit from the surface when we looked for the bubble. Seemed like there was a slight down current pushing us down too. We surfaced and the dingy was still around. He informed us that our friends were not in the same point anymore. We climbed back to the boat and decided to abort. When we were traveling to the big boat, we saw Made waving my mask, he was in the surface, Cynthia and Froggie were below. He told us we could still continue, so we wore the fins and jumped down again. Bad me, I felt guilty for postponing the whole thing. Fortunately, the dive went well, we missed the Pigmy and the Frogfish seen by other group though, but we slipper lobster, big colorful crabs, nudibranch and two dancing decorator crabs. The decorator crabs was lifting the fists high in the air, eh, water, face to face and made movement like dancing. I suspected they were mating. At first, I thought it was a funny looking coral, decorator crab always disguise themselves by attaching corals, rocks or anemones to their body, until I saw the two crab fists and figured out their shapes.

At this dive, we were introduced to the sea apples. The bright red creature with yellow spiky tentacles. It was everywhere, sized of human head. Sea apples can be found in not many water, but in Flores water, it’s abundant and everywhere. Sea apples then became our joke for every dive.

Enough for the day, no night dive tonight. After dinner, we started the card game, something I learned in the past, not sure what’s the name, I heard it’s called Chinese Poker. It was a strategy card game and fun to be played by four. We made a lot of noise until Ferdinand and Magnus came down to check on us. Before today, we were like two groups apart. The Caucasian would take sundeck upstairs as their place of free time, while we habituated the board site with staircase to nowhere or the front of the boat and the dining area.

Ferdinand was interested and soon, he mastered the game very well and became an expert. Sebastian and Made also came to check on us. Magnus looked a bit clueless even though he observed all the way. After many rounds, the other guy, Wilfred, also came to join the party. I pity him all the way, he has two meter height and all the while he had to bend down his head to adjust to the boat low ceiling, cabin size and also the bed size. What a back pain he would have!


16-17th October 2006

After first day, I couldn’t be gladder to have my own camera. I could take whatever I want, and my goal is to make a fish encyclopedia of my own. So instead of crowding around some special creature, I liked to take a lucky shot of them.
One day, I would like to specialize also, but I really enjoyed my waiting time when others were concentrating in taking difficult macro, I played around and snapped on my own pleasure. It was not easy to take picture of fish, they dashed around and played hide and seek. I think I became half crazy; I laughed when I was able to get a good shot, or half cursing the fish when they ran from me. I took all type of creature coming my way, even Made, our new DM, was confused when I spent few shots on very common fish. It’s not very common everywhere, but we saw it almost on every dive here. At that time, I was following a boomerang triggerfish, one type of harmless triggerfish who has boomerang pattern behind the eyes. It was also a very fun thing for me to be able to identify the fish between or after the dives.
So far in my history of diving, I haven’t had the experience of being narced aka lost orientation underwater in the depth. But laughing around and talking to fish, Ha ha ha, I know what species are you, might be considered some sort of narced? : )

First dive, we went back to cannibal rock to look for the pigmy and frogfish. The pigmy seahorse here were damn fat and big compared to the tiny one in Bali. Some were 2 cm in length and it was very easy to spot them (after the DM pointed to me of course! But in Bali, even when the DM had pointed, I was almost always still clueless), this time, it was different. We saw three fat pigmies in one seafan, it looked purple because it was quite deep. Not far from that, there was a grey big frogfish posing for picture, and a light grey one in the beginning of the dive.

Hubby managed to get very nice pictures of the tiny flangblenny, it was almost exactly like the ones we saw in the magazines. Very difficult to take, because of the size and the fish is active. It was still okay in the camera, but when we downloaded it to the hard disk, the memory card was error and two folders were failed to be recorded, including the blenny pictures, we are very upset!

We went Yellow Wall for the next dive, it had the same name with our cabin. Indeed we saw the wall full of yellow spiky nudibranch again, although since Pillarsteen, there were abundant number of them every dive. Except came in yellow color, there were white, black, red and green, more rare versions.
I can’t remember the details much for this dive and few one after, because I skipped the longing due to my laziness!
Cannibal Rock, Yellow Wall, Terpedo, Crinoid Wall were done around Rinca Island, one of the few islands we passed by. We saw many things, although I wouldn’t be able to mention them all, but what was fresh in my mind was on one of the dives, there were noises from our DM’s tank bangers. We happened to meet other group underwater, so we were one big herd of thirteen divers. Our DMs collaborated together to find us great things. When we look to the direction, the visibility was not very good but we saw the shape of Ghost Manta. We finned slightly away from the reef to catch a better glimpse, and the Manta changed direction and headed towards me. I could see the mouth, the belly, the bright white and clean color. I was busy, shouting to myself, excited, one moment I looked at the manta and enjoyed the beauty, other moment I was fiddling with my camera. Macro, wide angle, how does this thing work, I was completely lost. It was rather difficult to scream at the Manta, then look at the camera, scream again, adjust the camera again. Managed to get few shots under limited visibility.

After the Ghost Manta went away, we continued with the dive, and once again, our DM spotted something special from the blue. We dashed to the blue and lucky enough, I was able to see the Eagle Ray passed around. It disappeared for a while, and then came back quite close and disappeared again. The water was being murky on the wrong day lah!

We had very nice night dives also. In Cannibal Rock, we found four Spanish Dancer, no wonder I saw quite a lot of Egg Ribbon of the Spanish Dancer in the day! We also saw sleeping turtle, sleeping rabbit fish, Electric Crab, shaded batfish juvenile, who mimic the flatworm, the very very huge lobster who never moved a muscle when we took picture of it and many kind of fish.

That night, we were hanging around the boat front when we saw a squid. The small octopus was swimming by. We picked up our torch to look at the funny shaped octopus. It went down below the boat, then came out to another side. While we were following it with torch light, suddenly the boat crew jerked our torch to shine into something, turned out to be a giant barracuda. When we saw the giant shade, it was creepy; especially it was moving slow but steady towards the octopus. The octopus dived down, and the barracuda took it in one gulp.

Amazing daytime catch was when Hubby found a Flores dragonet juvenile, something rare. We also saw many white tip sharks sleeping under the table rock daytime, three or four of them at one rock. Some bigger sized ones were sleeping solitary under the rock, or in the open, like one huge nurseshark.
I found one of my favorite blenny taking a walk in the open, it didn’t even know we took picture of it. Many of them were hiding in the hole, we also saw jawfish with eggs but it refused to come out again to pose. Goby sharing nests with shrimp, various type of anemone fish and porcelain crab, crinoid, many many funny types of coral and from ugly Egg Cowry to very ugly and flabby nudibranch, until the funny shape nudibranch. We could see so many variant of nudibranch many dives, more than ten species of them in one dive we hardly seen anywhere else.

After Rinca Island, we passed by Padar Island and visited Three Sister. It’s a dive sites with three big sea mountain, each lay with different depth and had slightly different shallow area. I changed back to 0.5 as the water temperature went back to 25/26/27 degree, I couldn’t bear all the endurance wearing the 3mm. Difficult to wear, difficult to take out. First dive with it, I felt like I wanted to pass out before I touched water, I couldn’t breath! But it did feel very comfy inside cold water. Then we continued to dive along Komodo Island again in special dive site called Karang Makasar. It was a shallow, very shallow dive where we logged only 5,8meter! It was known as a location for manta to pass by. Sebastian just saw school of them in his previous dive there, but we were not lucky, no manta, although we saw a lot of macro things and many schools of snapper, scary-faced snappers, actually midnight snapper, red bass and black snapper. We saw many type of wrasse and surgeonfish too.
Night dive was done in Gili Rawa Barat Bay. It was the warmest night dive ever, very comfortable and fun.
18th October 2006

This was the last full day dive. Again, I failed to catch my sunrise. The sunrise should be around 5.30. After few times I failed to wake up, I woke up that day when the alarm sounded on 5.30, but the sky was already bright, so continued sleeping.

After briefing, we went down to Castle Rock, this is one of my favorite dive sites. When we were waiting for others in the surface, I faced down to look at the bottom, and around me was school of thousand blue fusiliers, so many of them. Upon descending, the big fish was everywhere, many of them came in school, like very huge giant black trevally. Some gathered together as odd shape, some just hovering around the horizontal line, some played on the bottom. It was glorious to see school of huge fish meeting medium and small ones. Fusiliers, various sweetlips, various snapper, various unicorn and triggerfish, butterflyfish, angelfish and many that I couldn’t identify. It’s not many dives we saw this type of scenery! Except the fish, I also love the scenery. Table corals and big rocks were creating unique landscape with a lot of terrain. It was a mass cleaning station. I read a lot about cleaning activity and that time, I saw the life show of them. Fish queue up on the table coral, while cleaner fish busy attending the their clients. I saw giant moray eel floating vertical below a table coral while the cleaner fish served it, so did an emperor angelfish with ‘merem-melek’ satisfied look.

We also did our secret mission, anniversary party. He he he he he he..

On this trip, we saw a lot of big reef octopus, but they were shy and only showed us the head. On the safety stop there was one octopus too. I guess Cynthia and Froggie were trying to wait for it to come out. I played around the big rock, where a pair of very friendly Moorish Idol came to entertain me. They brushed very close; sometimes they bumped into me, chased after each other, or just played around me. It was so close that it’s difficult to take their pictures. There were some lined surgeon fish playing around too, the environment looked like a kindergarten, friendly fish, school of blue surgeon hanging calmly around, except there were a lot of scorpion fish around. I’ve never seen them so lively. One big one was swimming to me, I was almost choked trying to avoid its spine, then it settled, right below me, wanna poison me? Then it moved again to my right, settled for a while, and moved again. I had to closely watch for its position, then I found another scorpion. At that time, my two Moorish Idol came back and played with me again.
I really love this dive.

Second dive, we went down to Crystal Rock, it had a lot of fish too, again, we saw a star puffer following the wrong herd, the puffer was very huge, same with what we saw in Bali, the one who followed batfish, this time, I guess it follow surgeonfish. We also saw one turtle, hawksbill (?), busy eating something on the coral. Headup, head down, shaking but, diagonal, I spent minutes watching it because I was waiting for my buddy. We found pigmy seahorse again, and fat one again. I only took two shoot from far, as Cynthia wanted to take also. I accidentally caught a hairy (jabrik) one in my picture. Because I don’t have macro lens, I could only position my camera quite far from the object, I caught three pigmies in one picture. Too bad, the quality was not really good.

At the end of the dive, the current started to picking up fast, so we hung around the rock. From below, we could see the wave crashing to the reef. When we were on the rock, the current became very strong but we hung in there. I found a pretty-eye goby in the hole, so with one hand, I tried to snap picture of it, it was very difficult to get a focus. After the dive, we climbed back to the dingy. Felt quite nauseous when we had to endure the choppy surface, I only took one pills a day, instead of usual three, but so far, so good, a bit pale-faced though.

When we were already in the dingy, while we were approaching the big boat, a school of dolphin swam by, EXCATLY ON THE POINT WE DID OUR SAFETY STOP! We wanted to jump back, but we wouldn’t make it easily because the current was flowing to our direction. So, we just said bye bye to the dolphin and regretted why we didn’t stay five minutes longer in the water.

Third dive we did at The Light House, I think I mixed up many things. There was fierce current in this dive also. Maybe second dive, we saw huge nurse shark laying motionless on the sea bottom. Sleeping? Maybe, but it was sure photo friendly, found huge white tip under the rock also.

At night, we arrived at Gili Banta island. From the bay, we saw the mountain standing in the dark. We always did our night dive in secluded bay, so far we had experienced the famous Komodo current, no way I wouldn’t respect that!
Night dive, we saw lots of nudibranch, sea star, shrimps, fish, cowry, Spanish dancer, it was a nice and relaxing night dive. I’m beginning to like night dives more. When we were sitting in the dark in the dingy, everywhere was silent. We couldn’t really talk anyway. Looked around and I saw four black shape funny human around me, all clad in heavy and dangling equipments, faces hidden behind hood, mask and regulator, somehow it hit me funny to see us like that with the frog leg-wearing long fins. It’s like we were going to mysterious secret mission. Kekeke.

I found weird sea star with one leg much longer than the other four. It was very challenging also trying to catch pictures of crabs and shrimps which just jumped away just before the camera clicked. Pelit. It was an amazing night dive and puzzled how, I came out with 125bar still left on my tank, so I only sucked 90 bar for one hour dive (?!).
19th October 2006

Last diving day! Only two dives today.
Morning, we geared up for GPS point, hoping to see big things.
We jumped, by the time I was descending, I looked at Froggie and Hubby down there and realized something was not really right when I saw them fining head down instead of usual easy dropping kind of descend. I quickly turned my position to head down too and found out my speculation was right, the current was blowing hard. It was almost impossible but finally, I grabbed the bottom. So I proceed to climb the rock horizontal toward Hubby. I tried to keep my pace, everyone was moving forward, there was no way one could turn back to check the behind, the water would go into the mask and the risk of having things ripped off the face was greater if we tried too. I saw Hubby reached the end of the slope where there was a drop-off. From the corner of my eyes, I saw Cynthia behind me. We tried to climb to the drop off while I saw Hubby disappeared behind that, hoping to get some relief behind the wall, but we couldn’t move an inch, the current was getting stronger and we had to make sure it wouldn’t rip off the mask and the reg. Having a company, both of us decided to stay, I also aborted all my plan to go to the drop off once I saw Hubby and Froggie bubble was flying to the left, then they parked on our far left.

We waited, and finally, we heard Made banging his signal behind us. Krincing krincing. So all of them were sweep in circular motion back to where we came from. He asked us to go down into a small-secluded area in between rocks near him. So me and Cynthia let go, and when we were near him, we grabbed some rock. It was a relief to see everyone intact and safe. Then we let go our grip and let the current drifted us. After a while, we met the other group. Although we didn’t see hammerhead, we saw a lot of big school of fish and some small thing like orang utan crab, zebra crab or adam crab in sea urchin (one of the spoiled pic!&$#), many huge hermit, and I also saw the flatworm mimic banded batfish juvenile hiding under the rock, so did spiny lobster.

We hung around a rock at the end of the dive. When we cleared our safety stop, the ang-moh group was gone. Made instructed us to hold hand together. So, five of us, hand to hand, let go our grip to the rock, and soon, the current flew us to the blue. When we were hanging there, we had no idea it was that strong! Good initiative to hold hands together, otherwise, we would be separated on the surface.
I should have wondered why the cook served us pisang goreng in the morning, for the energy to fight current! I should have been more suspicious …
No dingy picked us up as it was busy with other group. We were drifted and finally, the big boat itself came to us. We had new way, climbed from the side stair of the boat, the stair we used to hang around, now we know its purpose. We climbed from the side, and walked to the back to put our gear. The other group was just climbed to the boat from behind and surprised to see us walking full gear from nowhere.

Second dive Sebastian decided to give us easy dive, after the ripping crazy first dive. We went to Tandok Rasa, on the North of Gili Banta.
As if to say goodbye, one medium sized manta came to check us up, just minutes before we surfaced, while we were on our safety stop. It only dropped awhile, so we continued our safety stop and then it came back again. So, very close to Cynthia and me. I suddenly couldn’t see anything from my camera’s LCD, so I just pointed at it direction and took video. Then, thinking ‘How if I couldn’t catch it? I switched back to still images and captured few pose before it bumped to Made and flew away. Nice goodbye though!

So last dive of the trip. We took out our gears and washed them in the back, then dissembled it and dried it everywhere on the boat. Everyone was busy.
After that we relaxed, it was the last night on boat. We were sitting on the boat side watching small jellyfish swam by. The boat reached Sape jetty around noon and parked there. After collecting tips for all the crew, some of them took dingy to the city, maybe preparing for other trip. The vessel would be busy continuously until December. We watch the sunset to, the boats, big boat, small boat, fisherman boat passed by.

Just like every night, we could see amazing starry night. There were so many stars visible from the vessel; I saw many falling stars also.

We packed when the sun went down; most of our things were dried. We had early night.
20th October 2006

Around 4 am, I woke up and smelt fish, it must be the fishermen coming back with their catch.

My last chance, I set my alarm clock to 5. When it rung, I was trying to drag for few more minutes. Then I walked up. Everyone was still asleep. The sky was still dark. I went up to the sundeck and waited up for the sunrise. The wind was freezing cold but everything was calm and beautiful. I could see Sumbawa island. When the sky finally went reddish, it was time for pictures! Every crew was already awaked at this point.

On 7.45 am, we had finally land on the seaport and touched the land again. I thought I would feel ‘the shaky’ but amazingly, not at all, apparently, others did have the feeling. We boarded a bigger van, now could accommodate all of all and luggage inside. We went to airport early because we didn’t want to get caught in Friday prayer traffic. We saw delman, mountainous landscape all the way, I didn’t enjoy much, because I slept, slept, slept, other version of enjoyment.
One hour plus, we reached airport and checked in everything. There was a small little shop where we could buy teh botol, coke, and tidbits. Since the flight was still sometime away, midday, we played card.

The plane was a slightly better plane that the one we took to Labuan Bajo. This time, Sape-Denpasar only took 45 minutes to fly. It was a very short flight and soon, we touched down in Bali. After exchanged information, and envied to the two German who would continue diving in Lombok, we went out and meet another GK ambassador, we bought a T-shirt each. It was nicely compressed as a shape of heart, then we proceed to the guy from ADA, who picked us up once again.

This time, no road block, we reached hotel around one plus, dropped our luggage and went out for shopping and sight seeing around Kuta Bali despite the hot weather. We had lunch at McD, nice chicken! McD here doesn’t have chicken, or rice.
The nice shop around Kuta, they all wore expensive price tag, anyway, we had nothing much to buy, except, some DVDs!
After circling one round, nearby hotel, we decided to walk around Poppies, the narrow cluster of road full with shops, to the Kuta Beach. It was quite a long walk, but the weather got friendlier.

Kuta Beach was as beautiful as it was, this time, it was crowded, full of surfer, sun-tanning tourist, volleyball, and many activities. It was so full that I forgot one time it was deserted because if the bomb. When we visited it midyear 2002, before the first bomb, Kuta wasn’t that crowded too.
After enjoying the scenery for awhile, the salesmen kept disturbing us, from tattoo, hair art, to rug seller and necklace seller. Anyway, we didn’t look like fun tourist. We wore caps and normal shirt and short instead of swimming suit running to the water.

We took delman, horseriding back to the hotel, it was a fun ride, at least for me, who got better position. I thought I could sit in front with Cynthia, but then only one person in front with the driver, three of them squeezed at the back, we jammed out the whole road. Kekekeke.

Back to hotel, we played and chatted at the swimming pool, minus Froggie. My dive computer refused that the trip had over and still tried to log as new dive every time I submerged inside the water.

We showered and went out for dinner. We had this dinner at one fine dining place, the food was so-so and we had to watch a fish met its destiny when the table next to us ordered it. So after that, we went to the road side to get satay.
We ended the night with movies, each in own room, because we already watched their show and that night we preferred Animal Planet again. Not for long, we passed out.

21th October 2006

So long Bali..
Until next time..